By Sarika Chawla
Not long ago, L.A. street food culture was defined by taco trucks and bacon-wrapped hot dog stands. Today, the city is at the epicenter of a culinary phenomenon of innovative, creative cuisine being served out of mobile kitchens.
“Food trucks have taken a whole different direction over the last three years,” notes chef Susan Feniger, who—along with business partner Mary Sue Milliken—expanded her restaurant empire (Border Grill, Street) to include the Border Grill truck.
“Taco trucks have been around forever, but now you’ve trucks where people can get a grilled cheese or a dosa, and there’s something about it that creates a vibe,” explains Feniger. “In L.A. we’re not out on the streets very much, but [food trucks] create this street culture that is very cool. If you’re waiting in line for 20 minutes, there’s a connection to the people around you. It’s a great equalizer.”
These days, it’s hard to find a community event in Los Angeles that doesn’t involve food trucks. Coming up over Labor Day weekend is the four-day citywide culinary extravaganza, The Taste, a high caliber celebrity chef-driven festival featuring a Street Eats event in the Paramount Studios back lot.
“In talking about L.A. food culture, you can’t not have food trucks,” says Johnathan Crocker, co-founder of The Taste. “Food trucks have created this really unique experience where people can enjoy food in a different setting and have much more of a social atmosphere.”
Nick Spano, founder of the weekly Yamashiro Farmers Market, couldn’t agree more. “There used to be this void in Los Angeles, particularly for young families. There was nothing to draw them in.” 
Now in its second year, Spano’s Thursday evening event has become a social gathering spot for families and foodies alike. Between April and September, a free shuttle transports guests high up into the Hollywood Hills to take in the spectacular views while noshing on such creative delights as Yamashiro’s duck tacos, Middle Eastern-inspired comfort food from Global Soul, or the coveted Coolhaus creations of handmade ice cream sandwiched between gourmet cookies.
“The Yamashiro Farmers Market is our favorite thing to do on Thursday night,” says Julie Wolfson, an L.A. mom of two. “I love being out and about with my kids. We have access to fresh produce, locally made products and foods from around the world. The more I expose them to, the more they seem to latch on to the idea that it is cool to try new things.”
The explosion of L.A.’s gourmet food truck culture is usually credited to Kogi BBQ, the modest Korean-taco fusion concept that has grown into a multi-million-dollar enterprise. But even Kogi faced its critics in the early days, according to chef Roy Choi, who created the now-famous menu of spicy pork tacos and kimchi quesadillas. He recalls passersby turning up their noses at the Korean “roach coach” when it first roamed Wilshire Boulevard in late 2008.
A few short years later, dozens of mobile food vendors have jumped on the Kogi model: show up at high-traffic streets and events, broadcast the location via Twitter, and watch the lines form.
Of course, not all businesses have experienced the same success as Kogi, and such rapid growth doesn’t come without its pitfalls. Just ask the Abbot Kinney Merchants Committee, which posted No Parking signs at the First Friday event last December, in an effort to curb the number of trucks lining the streets.
The ban has yet to return, so on the first Friday of every month, trucks can be found lining the streets as well as clustered in the parking lot of The Brig. Meanwhile, local businesses are still struggling to find the right balance.
“We’ve made some efforts to control the density of the trucks on the streets, as we’ve had problems with safety issues and disruptive behavior,” says Donna Lasman, executive director of the Venice Chamber of Commerce. “The merchants want to emphasize that there are in-store activities and wonderful restaurants [on Abbot Kinney].”
As the owner of both restaurants and trucks, Feniger believes, “There’s room for everybody. The trucks have to be respectful of parking directly in front of a business, but there’s also the argument that it’s helping to pull in more people. I think it’s a different customer who is going to a truck versus one who is walking along Abbott Kinney looking to sit down in a restaurant.”
The Downtown L.A. Artwalk, which has been around since long before the gourmet food trucks existed, has also faced the challenge of figuring out where to fit in the mobile vendors. On the second Thursday of every month, the downtown streets are alive with Angelenos wandering among vibrant art displays, spilling out of restaurants and bars, and crowding into lots packed with food trucks.
With options ranging from Native American-meets-Mexican at Auntie’s Fry Bread Tacos to healthy vegan treats at the Veg It Up truck, it was no surprise when attention began to stray from the art and onto the food.
“The food trucks started showing up at Art Walk in the past couple years,” explains Joe Moller, executive director of the event. “Originally, they set up shop intentionally in front of the local businesses to tap into their customer base.” Area businesses did experience a negative impact on their sales, but giving the trucks their own space to convene has alleviated the problem.
In the meantime, the story of L.A.’s street food scene continues to evolve, getting more sustainable in the process. Food trucks Mandoline, Dosa and Yalla offer tons of vegan options, and the Green Truck runs on veggie oil. And they’re all looking pretty snazzy. Feniger notes that even the old-school taco trucks have embraced branding, with neon lights and staffers in matching T-shirts. 
Some truck owners are parlaying their success into permanent brick-and-mortar locations, like Choi’s strip-mall restaurant, Chego, and Komodo’s new West L.A. cafe. Others are turning their attention to catering events, such as weddings and birthday parties.
So is the gourmet food truck scene a fleeting trend or is it here to stay?
“Street food will always be a part of life in Los Angeles,” says Wolfson. “My kids and I will be there to cheer them on and keep searching for something new to taste.”
Upcoming Food Truck Events
Venice First Friday Every month on Abbot Kinney
Barnsdall Wine Tasting Every Friday night through September
Downtown L.A. Artwalk Second Thursday of every month
Din Din a Go Go Every Tuesday night at Figueroa Produce, Highland Park
The Taste 9/2–5
Yamashiro Farmers Market Every Thursday through September
Find food fast! Findlafoodtrucks.com compiles real-time Twitter postings from many of the most popular trucks, and Valley Food Trucks retweets all Valley locations.
Artwalk photo by Kris Angell, Yamashiro photo by Stephen Loh
❋❋ If you liked this story you might also enjoy . . . ❋❋
❁ Dining Out—But In
❁ A Jolt of Delicious
