2117 Sawtelle

By Lisa Mouhibian

Music may be the food of love, as Shakespeare famously said, but nowhere does love of music infuse food chef Hideyo- 2117more than at Restaurant 2117.

Japanese rock musician Hideyo Mitsuno came to the U.S. in his youth to be part of the vibrant music scene of the late ’70s. He played here for a while, then returned to Japan, but couldn’t forget about the States. So he began devising a plan to get back over here. Mitsuno trained under various Japanese chefs, then moved to Los Angeles to express his artistry through cooking.

Chef Hideyo serves up some of the best, most creative and subtly refined upscale healthy food in LA, in a relaxed and casual environment tucked away inside a tiny strip mall on Sawtelle. His inspired recipes call for little to no dairy, and offers flavor without the hangover effect of heavy foods. Amidst the culinary abundance of the holidays, its nice to be able to indulge without the guilt.

2117 uses organic, pesticide- and hormone-free produce, meat and fish whenever possible, and harmonizes French technique with Japanese sensibility (light) and the Italian approach of simple direct recipes using fresh, locally sourced ingredients.

Chef Hideyo’s melody is fish, vegetarian and vegan dishes, but he does offer grace notes of meat and pasta (the duck is fabulous). His sashimi is fresh and of the highest quality. For a fishy starter, Japanese Tai Snapper Carpaccio ($7.95) is sweet, delicate and smooth, with the snapper accented by a delicate halo of thinly fried noodles and laced with a drizzle of wasabi-infused soy vinaigrette. It melts on the tongue and the vinaigrette lends just the right amount of latent kick. If you’re a truffle fan, start with Crispy miso sauce-2117 lo resTruffle Yukon Potato ($6.95)—crispy hash brown-style potatoes infused with truffle flavor.

Vegetables are dominant at times, as in the delectable Vegan Green Curry, a medley of vegetables cooked crisp/tender— bright orange carrots, snappy green and white fresh beans, tender, crunchy green and red peppers, cauliflower, onions and celery hovering beneath a dairy-defying creamy curry sauce. Flanked by a side of custardy grilled tofu, nutty brown rice and a tart and crunchy carrot/daikon slaw, this dish and its contrasting subtle flavors and textures pops and bursts in your mouth. Creamy, zingy, slightly hot, it’s a very flavorful curry, highly recommended.

Another score is Branzino with Asian Vegetables & Miso Sauce. A filet of fish nestles snugly atop a medley of perfectly cooked al dente Asian vegetables—plump, tender organic buna shimeji (beech) mushrooms and tender, crisp bok choy. The miso sauce, nuanced with hints of ginger and soy, does not compete with flavors of the fish, but coaxes out its buttery texture.

exterior 2117Prices are reasonable, with a three-course prix fixe for lunch ($18), and two dinner prix fixe options (three-course for $25 and five-course for $38), and prices for small plates starting at $6.95.

There is a limited, yet well-conceived wine list, with a tempting selection of
reds, whites and affordable champagnes. There’s also a selection of half bottles, or corkage for only $10.

“My philosophy is that you should be able to eat tasty food every day and not
feel heavy,” Chef Hideyo says. He’s certainly achieved this with 2117.

2117 Sawtelle Blvd., LA 90025, 310.477.1617, @restaurant2117

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