By Lili Nadja Barsha
The prevailing raw trend seems to suggest that healthy food must hurt—that somehow it must be a burden or taste unpleasant (what meat eaters refer to as a “diet of penance”), and honestly, when I do venture into the retail world of vegetarian delights, I’m often left with the impression of being served whole foods by fractured people. Not so at SunPower Natural Café, the new vegan/raw restaurant in Studio City.
Sandwiched between KPFK and Poquito Mas on Cahuenga, beneath the shadow of Universal’s infamous Black Tower, SunPower Natural offers an affordable, organic, vegetarian lunch menu fit for vegans and carnivores alike. Owner Rebecca Smith and her partner, Ron, have created an oasis—a clean and inviting take-out room with wood accents and warm peach and white walls. A plush, cushioned bay window overlooks the 101 freeway and a few scattered tables accommodate the frazzled but fabulous wardrobe and makeup stylists dashing in for healthy, speedy food. (SunPower also delivers locally, in case you happen to be stuck in an editing bay or an interminable meeting with suits.)
If I were among the harried, instead of stopping at In-and-Out after work for my shake fix, I’d hop across the street and get six Sun Power Shakes to go, take ‘em home, freeze ‘em, and every weekday I’d have a healthy breakfast smoothie ready for the morning commute. They’re made with fresh cashew milk and superfood rich in antioxidants, spirulina and acacia berry. The cacao was my favorite (chocolate always is), and so much better than a milkshake, which leaves me feeling thick as cream and gurgley. The strawberry and kale shakes were a good runner-up. Kale? In a smoothie? All I can say is thank heaven someone has come up with a healthy shake to rival McDonald’s annual Shamrock Shake—it’s very green and delicious.
Apart from the convenient location, SunPower Natural’s main draw is the chef—Rawsheed. That’s right, Chef Rawsheed. How often to you get to eat at a place with an onomatopoeic chef? This is why we love L.A. He’s a native. He will rawk you. Try the Supreme SunPower Sausage Pizza with crunchy sunflower-crust, creamy pesto sauce, cashew cheese, sun-dried tomato “sausage,” green onions, olives, mushrooms, and barbeque dressing. His specialty is evident in the sauces. This man could take on a top saucier and he would come out on top and healthier.
I’ll go back for the Lettuce Tacos—savory butter-leaf sheaths filled with avocado, tomato, pine nuts, and a delectable, dairy-free, basil-ranch dressing. Yes, vegans, there is a hidden valley ranch for everyone! The tacos could be served as an appetizer at Musso and Frank and you would never know they’re vegan. My dining mate liked the Curry Salad with apples, carrots, pecans, grilled tofu and baby greens, declaring, “This is the one I will crave;” while I preferred the Asian Salad with spinach, raisins, water chestnuts, grilled seitan, orange segments and sesame seeds, with a tangy citrus dressing. The food is clean, satisfying, and covers all the taste buds. I even tried the Mushroom Burger. Not normally a fan of the veggie burger, I have to say that I really enjoyed the taste and texture. It felt meaty in the mouth—a definite plus for the carnivorous companion—and paired with a tall glass of fresh lemonade sweetened with agave nectar, it’s like being down-home in the South and tucking into juicy BBQ.
Just up the boulevard, where Cahuenga becomes Ventura, is another new eatery called Vegan World. There, Chef Tu whips up veggie fare with a Vietnamese and Thai flair. I have often wished for a nice Pho place on the boulevard and this is
The burger, like the one down the street was surprisingly good, despite the thinly veiled attempt to resemble beef. Maybe it’s all about freshly ground patties? They have a breakfast menu, too, a treat among vegan restaurants. I tried the lentil patty, tofu scramble, and pancakes with bananas and blueberries. Heaven. I would have preferred real maple syrup, but even the Aunt Jemima tasted better atop their hotcakes. Would I return? Already have.
Lili Nadja Barsha is a writer/director/performer who lives in the SF Valley.
SunPower Natural Café, 3711 W. Cahuenga Blvd., Studio City. 818.308.7420
Vegan World, 11044 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.985.9544.
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